Surfing pollution, massive sinus infection, bus somewhere new. Explaining what drugs I need in pantomime.
In the morning, I meet this guy who's sponsored from somewhere like home. Because of this he rides a sick Bruce Irons SP that he lets me practice duck diving on and tells me to paddle out back. He looks like Andy Irons in his VZs and introduces me to his friends, they all read books and most of them work at the place he rides for at home, and we drink pina coladas that are made from actual pina plus colada.
Later, there are stars and we've walked home and it's really only mid evening but it gets dark here and we surf so early it feels like midnight. There is a moon and frogs and we talk forever on beach chairs until he looks over and I make the mistake of giving the look back and in a swoop he removes me from my chair to his and kisses me. Surf arms will do that.
And we spend 72 hours like we've hung out forever. Eating ice cream. Surfing. Doing nothing. Listening to music. The Yeah Yeah Yeahs are top two, he's taking a year off to build a house and sell it. He is the antithesis of my current relationship, the little voice in the back of the room, the nugget of doubt that maybe I would be happier with someone who understood these things. Surfing. Not planning too much. Reading books and the punk rock show. Understatement and anti consumerism without fastidious obsession. Every once in awhile he reaches over and swings my hammock a little. It's a good thing he had to leave. It's a good thing he didn't stay, it's a good thing it wasn't longer and he didn't ask me to go, because maybe.
And I start to have doubts.
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